Sedir Restaurant in Sirince, Izmir Province, Turkey, near the Market.

Simple but subtle cooking with great attention to precision in balance of flavours. Two versions of aubergine salad were amazing. Manti (Turkish ravioli) were the best manti I had ever had, the sauce for them was astonishing. Chicken saute was simplicity itself: diced chicken gently cooked with tomatoes, garlic and thyme, but the harmony of flavours was heavenly. To check that this was not an aberration we visited the place again a couple of days later — the second time was even better. In my opinion, this stability of quality is evidence of chef’s true professionalism.

The menu was short but well composed. The choice of wines was also minimalist, to put it mildly: one red and one white, but my French colleague confirmed that Turkish Shiraz stocked by Sedir was agreeable and matched the food nicely.

And home-made baklava (still hot from the oven) with home-brewed cherry liqueur (produced in the most basic way: by fermenting whole black cherries in a glass jar, with cinnamon and gloves added directly into the jar) made a perfect match as desert.

Price is moderate — in any case, Sedir is much cheaper than the indisputable flagship of Sirince’s restaurants, Nisanyan House Hotel (but the latter of course has more opulent ambiance).

Small is beautiful. Simple is beautiful. Loving care for cooking is beautiful.